Showing posts with label easy math. Show all posts
Showing posts with label easy math. Show all posts

no waste granny square sizes

so what size granny square block would you have if you cut your squares to finish at 3 inches?? or 4inches??

i figured it out for ya!!

CLICK HERE for a one page pdf with cutting sizes for the squares, side triangles, and corner triangles to keep the edge of your block on the straight of grain....

i think it's pretty self explanatory, but if you have questions post in the comments or email me...

there are tons! of how-to sew a granny square block, just Google it!!

happy stitchin'

ETA: i also figured the math on specific block sizes; 12", 14", 16", etc. that pdf can be found HERE

setting triangles

when piecing a quilt that has blocks set on point, you want to cut the setting and corner triangles so the edge of the quilt top is on the straight of grain. this is important to keep the edge from stretching when you go to sew on your borders.


side triangles are the teal along the edges and the corner triangles are orange.









here's a chart of some of the most 'common' block sizes and the square size to cut for setting triangles and corner triangles. this chart will give you exact on point corners- the block's corner will be exactly on the seam. if you want your block corner to float- add an 1/2" to 1" to the square size listed. clear as mud, right?

for side setting triangles, you will cut the square across both diagonals.

for the corner triangles you cut 2 squares once across the diagonal (you'll only need 2 squares because a quilt only has four corners).

i recommend spraying the fabric with some sizing, best press, or starch before cutting to help stabilize the bias edges.



for those that are interested, here is the math formula for figuring out the square size. i round up to the nearest 1/8 inch.

for the side setting triangles:
multiply finished block by 1.414 and add 1.25
for the corner triangles:divide finished block by 1.414 and add .875


and i use to H.A.T.E. math....

sashings and cornerstone math

i haven't posted an 'easy math' in a while.

i found this....it's how many sashings and cornerstones you need for specific layouts- with the sashings continuing to the outside edges of the block (think inner border)...i dug it out when i was working on FootNotes this weekend.

how many stitches does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie roll pop?


i was thinking the other day: how many bobbins would it take to make a million stitches? according to Bottom Line, there is 119 yds of thread on a 'L' class bobbin (what nemo uses)  let's take off two yards for tails and such and that leaves 117yds. 117yds times 36 to get 4,212 inches of thread. i set my stitch regulator to 12 stitches per inch, so that is 50,544 stitches per bobbin (have you just skipped to the bottom yet?) so one million divided by 50,544 equals (drum roll please)


approximately 20 'L' class bobbins will give you
one million stitches.
(in case you are ever on a game show and they ask...)

(i average about 20 bobbins every two weeks....wow, that's 2 million plus stitches a month...times 6 years of LAing is 144 million stitches....so what started this train of thought? my bobbin winder is on it's last legs and i was thinking about how mant bobbins it has wound in it ever so useful life....plus i changed out the hook assembly)

*wish i had a nickel for every stitch i've quilted...*
(if you're curious that's like $750,000...right? ok, now my brain hurts)

No Waste Flying Geese Tutorial

in my BOM posts, i used a link to a flying geese how to.....well, it seems to have disappeared....so i'm doing my own, including the easy math. that way i know it'll be there when i need the link....

with the no waste flying goose (NWFG) method, you'll sew 6 seams and end up with 4 flying geese units that have no waste (duh), sewing no bias edges, and no edges that are biased.


No Waste Flying Geese .pdf

here's the 'secret' math of the goose.
















here's a chart of some common sizes of flying geese used in quilting.
















you'll need 4 small squares, and one big square. this shows where each fabric will end up in the finished goose unit.

i know that some quilters draw the diagonal and sew 1/4" on each side of that line using their 1/4" foot, but i found i get more accurate points if i draw the two sewing lines. i use a Quilter's Rule Quick Quarter and a fine tipped Sharpie to draw the lines. i test draw the line on a scrap of fabric to double check that it doesn't show through to the front, and is just dark enough to see. on lighter colored fabric i use a mechanical pencil with a light hand.









take your larger square and lay two smaller squares across the diagonal. match the corners of the little squares to the corners of the large square. place two pins at the two corners.









this is where the accurate points come in. where the two smaller squares cross each other, check that your drawn lines continue across each other in a straight line. place a pin to hold where they cross and if needed place a pin in the middle of each little square.







take to your sewing machine and sew on both drawn lines. here's another one of my 'tricks'....i press my sewn fabrics before i press the seam allowances. my theory is that by pressing the fabric 'flat' that it warms up the fabrics and makes preps the fabric and makes the seam allowance press easier with no 'dunlop' (dunlop is where excess fabric hangs over the sewn seams).also, i do not press on a traditional ironing board. i press using a hard surface board. i took some furnture grade plywood, wrapped it in a couple layers of scrap batting and covered it with some duck canvas. i noticed immediatley that my blocks pressed better. notice in the picture the difference in the two fabric pieces. the pressed one lays flatter and is neater.




cut the unit apart by matching the edge of your ruler to the points of the large block.







press the SA towards the little squares. i like to think that it looks like a heart at this point.


i trim off the 'dog ears as i go. notice the top one is trimmed, the bottom still has it's dogears.












place the two remaing little squares on the diagonal across the bottom of the 'heart' and pin.
















check that the drawn lines hit the edge of the little squares first sewn. i think of it as the lines hitting exactly in the valley of the mountains.










sew on the drawn lines, and cut apart. press the SA towards the little squares.
















trim off the dog ears, and ta-dah! 4 NWFG units. of course this is just one of many ways to sew fly geese. this is my favorite, and the way i sew all my flying geese. with the easy math secret, if you have a pattern that uses a different technique, you can easily do the math and cut your fabrics for this method.




happy stitching...

binding yardage

i realized i haven't posted an 'easy math' for a while, sorry...so i'll fix that. here are two charts for yardage needed for binding. this chart is based on 40" of usable fabric...

to use the charts measure your quilt. add the width and length together, then multiply by 2. add 20 for miters and tails (and if your like me- ooppies). take that number and find it along the top of the charts. if you want bias binding (cut on a 45 degree angle to the selvage), use the bias cutting chart, if your cutting straight grain (cutting selvage to selvage across the fabric), use that chart.

nice and easy, lemon pleasy...



quilt size "guidelines"

i haven't done an easy math post in a while and found this.

i recommend this as a jumping off point. i've stated before and i'll say it again- mattress sizes are pretty normal- but it's the thickness that varies, so if making a quilt for a bed take that into account...

taking out the math #3

here is a chart that will tell you how many stitches per inch (SPI) you get if your domestic sewing machine is metric. but if you want a true representation of exactly how many SPI your machine does, take a strip of fabric and mark it in inch increments and set your machine at different lengths and stitch for a inch. then count how many you're getting, mark that on your fabric as well as what stitch length setting you used for that inch. keep that close to your machine and you'll always have a record of your SPI.

when i piece, i use 11-12 stitches per inches. if you are sewing thru paper and it will be removed, i recommend 15-18 SPI (or higher depending on the weight of the paper) to make removing the paper easier. do a small test with the paper to be absolutely sure it's the results you want.

millimeters/ stitches per inch
.5 / 50
.1 / 25
1.5 / 16
2 / 12
2.5 / 10
3 / 8
3.5 / 7
4 / 6
4.5- 5 / 5

happy stitchin'

taking out the math #2

okay here's another chart for all the non-math majors. it is a chart of 'standard' mattress sizes.
now, a word of caution: there is NO 'standard' mattress size. what i mean is this, the surface top (where you sleep) is pretty consistant, but with all the different pillow tops, depth of the mattress varies. so if you're going to make a quilt to fit a certain bed- MEASURE THAT PARTICULAR BED including the depth of the mattress (called the drop). also, when a quilt top is quilted and washed it shrinks (up to 10% depending on the type of batting used) so i recommend adding at least 10" in both directions: width and length,to the quilt top to allow for this. trust me, i made a quilt to fit my bed- looked beautiful! then i washed it- it didn't fit my bed anymore. so i add 10 inches to every quilt i make for shrinkage. (disclaimer-*groan* this is MY personal opinion, based on at least 10 years of making quilts. it is in NO way industry fact. you are left to use your own creative interpretation of my previous experiences :) )

Bed Mattress size (in inches/ width x length)
Buggy 15 x 31
crib 23 x 46
playpen 40 x 46
youth 32 x 66
studio (?) 30 x 75
bunk 38 x 75
twin* 39 x 75
wide twin 48 x 75
long twin 39 x 80 (used commonly in college dorms)
double/full* 54 x 75
queen* 60 x 80
king* 78 x 80
CA king 72 x 84

(*- denotes 'standard' size)
oh- i've never heard or seen a mattress labeled 'studio' but i included it anyway....

that's clear as mud, right?

Taking out the math #1

i was designing a quilt this week and came across this handy dandy chart, so i thought i'd share.
i'll post every once in a while a 'taking the math' out of quilting topic.

today, it's what you can get from a fat quarter (a fat quarter is a piece of fabric appox. 18" x 22") these are the CUT dimensions!

(99)- 2" squares
(50)- 2 1/2" sqs
(42)- 3" sqs
(30)- 3 1/2" sqs
(20)- 4" sqs
(16)- 4 1/2" sqs
(12)- 5" sqs
(12)- 5 1/2" sqs
(9)- 6" sqs
(6)-6 1/2" sqs

next time you start digging in your stash for fabric, i hope this chart comes in handy.